Who hasn't heard of Jaakuaraq – Little Jaaku – a great hunter and a great man living in Uummannaq? In Mongolia and in Siberia, in Venezuela and in Amsterdam he has friends who love him. But in reality Little Jaaku has never left the frozen plains of Greenland. Now, for the first time in his life Little Jaaku is ready to wander the world. Accompanied by two helping spirits Jaaku will start his journey by crossing America - from Las Vegas to New York. He doesn't know yet where he will go and what exactly he will do. As always, he will just follow the ice.


During this trip Little Jaaku will discover America, but America will also discover him.


On the road we will find out what real Americans know about Greenland. We will also learn a lot about them. Not very many Greenlanders have been to Kansas and Mississipi, and even less Americans have even heard about Greenland.


Our Beamer decorated by the glorious Greenlandic flag is ready to start a ride. it is as anxious as a sled dog that has smelt the sea ice. Damma!!! Go!






Sunday, July 17, 2011

Hoover Dam, Meteo Crater and the Boneyard.


Away, away from Nevada and all its countless hazards to the sunny state of Arizona! And our first stop here is, of course, Hoover Dam!
At the entrance our car is being stopped for inspection by the vigilant Hoover Dam police that makes sure that we are not carrying illegal aliens or explosives: bombs, etc…









Of course, we do not. We couldn’t care less about bombs; instead we are carrying the glorious Flag of Greenland, which in a matter of minutes we will plant on top of the Dam!

It is +43C this morning and we are about to climb the height of a 100+ story building. This is not an easy task. 725 feet up – that’s how high Hoover Dam is. But the newly built Hoover Dam Bypass stands even higher – dwarfing the Dam itself.


















From here you can easily ascend to heavens. Winds are brutal here. During our ascend we almost lose Little Jaaku to one of the furious gusts.

At 11:35 we plant the Flag of Greenland at the summit. Now we look at Hoover Dam from above. Stuck in the middle of the desert it reminds of a colossal monster too heavy to move. Hundreds of humans, like microbes, are constantly crawling up and down its cement spine.

As we leave Hoover Dam police is watching us with precision. But indeed, there is nothing more solid than Hoover Dam. Nothing, absolutely nothing can break it. Maybe only an asteroid or a meteorite. And that’s why our next destination will be a Meteo Crater   - a place where a tiny asteroid travelling at 18 km per second collided with Earth some 50,000 years ago.




It’s hard to understand why such a quiet and boring place like this had attracted the first and best preserved meteorite in America.


Look at this giant hole in the ground, nearly a mile across and over 500 feet deep! Feel the Impact! But of course, we have seen holes bigger than this one: in Siberia. Tunguska Blast in 1908  produced a crater 45 km wide!


Daniel Barringer, a mining engineer from Philadelphia, bought the Crater in 1903 and drilled a 1,400 foot deep hole to find gold and other precious metals. He found nothing and died soon after he ran out of money. But now the family business is flourishing since millions of tourists are buying “Crater Dust” and other goodies for 10 dollars a bag.


50,000 years have passed since, but nothing still grows here, and nothing lives. 









 I wonder what kind of clean-up is necessary to make this land livable again?




Unattractive for animals and plants, this place still lures humans. Astronauts scheduled for the Apollo Moon Missions trained at the Crater in the 60-s. And here is the evidence: a cardboard cutout of a fellow in a space suit next to an American flag in the very center of the Crater and a test capsule named Boiler Plate 29A which NASA gave to Barringer family as a gift.


To our deep disappointment, not a single person whom we interviewed along the perimeter of the Crater knows “How far is Greenland?” One visitor from Utah suggests that it is in Colorado. So, in circumstances given we just can’t leave without planting the Flag of Greenland at the bottom of the Crater. But this is not an easy task. The bottom of the Crater is out of reach: Barringer family does not want anyone even close to it. The only solution is to plant it from the distance.




 We use a miniature copy of a Greenland Flag and a little Indian arrow that we bought in the local Indian store as a carrier.




 In a blink of an eye our little flag is gone with wind! If you enlarge the screen you may see it  - right in the center of the Crater.

From Meteo Crater we drive to another major graveyard: 'The Boneyard', an aerospace storage and maintenance facility at Davis-Monthan Air Force Base in Tucson. This is the place where old fighters and bombers  come to die.


Local air – dry and clean – makes Tucson’s Boneyard an ideal place for afterlife. There is literally no corrosion and the soil is so firm that even the heaviest of the planes do not sink.


It is +45 this morning. The only shade we can find is under the dead jet.


Here Little Jaaky finds a match: the world’s tiniest airplane that looks like a little bee. The Starr Bumble Bee I.


And here he also gets to sit on the B57 Nuclear Bomb.


The day in Arizona brings new emotions and new friends. And finally we discover people who not only know ‘how far Greenland is”, but can also locate Uummannaq on the map. Young and handsome NATO fighter pilots from Norway befriend Little Jaaku and take him out for dinner at a local diner. Their relationship with Greenland? Simple: they fly in the Arctic and constantly they see Greenland under the wing.


From the Graveyards we head to Petrified Forest. It straddles the border between Apache County and Navajo County in northeastern Arizona.




It is famous for it fossils, of early dinosaurs and especially of fallen trees that lived in the Late Triassic period of the Mesozoic era and that many people living today are still trying to steel. Why would anyone need a petrified tree at all?


It is so hot here, that Little Jaaku is being slowly petrified. People wandering around Petrified Forest are genuinely nice to us. Every single person is trying to touch Little Jaaku and everyone compliments his fabulous polar bear pants. But still no luck in achieving our main mission: finding out “how far Greenland is”.


As we are being checked for stolen petrified trees in the trunk of our Beamer, a massive thunderstorm shakes the ancient Petrified Forest and a much welcomed rain falls on our roof.
Thunder, rain and then finally - a double rainbow growing right out of the high way. It moves as we move, reminding us once again that life is a happy illusion.
















We are on our way to Coconino National Forest, we stop in the local Indian stores which are incredibly entertaining...














and buy cheap Indian blankets because cool Sedona with its chilling +18C is awaiting for us.
 Finally, after two more rains and three thunderstorms, we are in the Red Rocks of Sedona where many of Hollywood's classic westerns were filmed.















And here our search for Greenland in the sunny state of Arizona comes to an end.


We did not find Greenland, but we were happy with what we saw. Some parts of Arizona look like steppe, other parts  - like rain forest, and  other parts  - like a Moon. This is a great state to live in and to visit alike.








Saturday, July 9, 2011

Area 51 and the Box: Use of Deadly Force Authorized!


After loosing all our dogs in the burning hell of Death Valley, we are ready to move forward towards the unknown. Life at 282 feet below sea level can be glamorous, but you can take only so much of it at a time. So, we are leaving our hospitable Greenland Street in Death Valley to continue our search of New Greenland in the flats of Nevada, Arizona and New Mexico.


Before departure we pay a visit to Greenland-Death Valley post office to send postcards to all our wonderful friends in Uummannaq, Aasiaat, Ilulissat, Qaarsut, Qaanaaq and Nuuk.

It's only +49C this morning, pleasant and cool, and still so much action ahead.




















Our first stop is in Pahrump, Nevada. Here live the people who are ready to protect and preserve American values.


Located in the desert just steps away from Area 51, Pahrump is famous for its beef-jerky, multiple churches and legal brothels such as the world famous historic Chicken Ranch Brothel, otherwise known as the "Best Little Whorehouse in the West". We stop here to buy mineral water and post stamps. The little supermarket also sells diamonds, watches and GUNS!


While prostitution is illegal in Las Vegas, it is absolutely legal in Pahrump. At the same time, some things are absolutely legal in Vegas, yet illegal in Pahrump. For example, 5 years ago the Pahrump town board voted for an ordinance declaring English the official language of business, forbidding the display of foreign flags and denying any benefits to illegal aliens. 

So our Beamer generously decorated with numerous Greenlandic flags may be in trouble. Visitors of a local supermarket stare at us with suspicion. Apparently, they are taking Little Jaaku and three Tupilaks accompanying him to be illegal aliens seeking benefits in the city of Pahrump.


Even the rabbit at the local gas station is trying to chew on our foreign Greenlandic flag.






So, instead of asking our trademark question “How far is Greenland?” we retreat towards Area 51, Red Flag and the "Box" (not to be confused with our Uummannaq famous wooden IceCraft also called the "Box") as fast as we can while curious Predator Drones are circling above our heads. Here use of deadly force is authorized.

Right behind this double fence of barbed wire and the prickly cactuses that encircles the humongous area half the size of Switzerland, the world’s biggest aerial war is being constantly played:  real houses and trains are being built and real bombs are being meticulously dropped on them. 











We are stopping at a little road restaurant to try out some of the Area 51 best treats: signature giant wrap "Predator II" with Freedom Fries for a token price $7.95.  












After dinner, at the neighboring gas station Jaakuaraq discovers barricades of ammo boxes full of Czarina Vodka for a heart-wrenching price of $9.99 per 1.75L. Hello, Greenland!




The night is falling on Area 51. Someplace deep in these dull-looking mountains all the aliens, all the dwarfs and  giants that had come from space,  are allegedly being kept. We are driving slowly hoping to  see and maybe to even meet them in person.
Instead,  in the quickly approaching darkness Jaakuaraq finally meets his first cow. Now he is almost ready to become a real  cowboy!

In the morning, Jaakuaraq takes his first “cactus-sitting” contest popular in these enigmatic territories and of course wins the battle right away. Our journey is about to be continued. Please, wish us luck on the American road!










Monday, July 4, 2011

The Greenland of Death Valley

This morning (Forth of July, Independence Day) at 5.46am, just minutes before the sunrise,  Jaakuaraq successfully planted the glorious Greenlandic flag on the seabed of Death Valley at 282 feet below sea level. +46C at the moment of the installation. Forecasted temperature for the day - +51C  (+123F).








Death Valley is in "the hottest place of the world"! Well, the second hottest after Libya. (+134F versus +136F record temperatures). Not to be forgotten that the ground temperature of Death valley is 40% hotter than the temperature of surrounding air. Little Jaaku's polar bear pants are smoking. Now he is a "man on fire".





It is  the land of brutal environmental extremes and some randomly roaming humans (from Uummannaq, Greenland).


Who else lives here? Rattlesnakes, black widows and other scary spiders. And scorpions, of course!


Cool-minded and resourceful Jaakuaraq is  ready to adapt. He is fully prepared to be salt and drought resistant.



And who says it is not Greenland? Dressed for desert success, Jaakuaraq is hunting a big game at 282 feet below sea level.



It is still an hour before the sunrise, but our blood is already boiling. Our minds drift and far on the horizon we see mirages - water, the cold ocean. We run towards them ..and find nothing. Just more salt and more heat. The heat is  becoming unbearable, even for those of us who do not fashion polar bear pants this morning. The expected temperature for the day is +124F (+51C). 

From 4:30 to 7am this morning, 6 Greenlandic Flags have been installed on the bottom in Death Valley - starting from Badwaters and finishing with Zabriskie Point.

The sun finally rises, but the horizon is still hidden in the smog. Neon glowing Las Vegas sends here all its junk by air. Acid rains in Death Valley are now a reality. It should be the cleanest place on Earth, sterile and intact, like Arctic, yet pollution here is now as visible  here as it is in Uummannaq, Greenland.



But the good news is that even in Death Valley Jaakuaraq gets to live on Greenland Boulevard. So the Greenland of Death Valley is a reality too. And we are happy about it! Qujanaq!